ISO 5162:2023

INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 5162
First edition
2023-04
Textiles — Quality labelling
specification for dehaired cashmere
Textiles — Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé
Reference number
© ISO 2023
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ii
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Quality labelling requirements . .3
4.1 Product classification . 3
4.2 Product type . 3
4.3 Other quality parameters . 4
4.4 Quality labelling . 4
5 Test methods . 4
5.1 Standard atmospheres . 4
5.2 Mean fibre diameter test . 4
5.3 Mean fibre length and short fibre content test . 4
5.4 Guard fibre content test. 5
5.5 Foreign matter content test . 5
5.6 Dark fibre test . 5
5.7 Damaged fibre content test . 5
5.8 Animal fibre, other animal fibre, non-animal matter and polymer matter content
test . 6
5.9 Moisture regain test . 6
5.10 Grease content test . 6
5.11 pH value test . 6
5.12 APEO test . 6
5.13 Calculation of conditioned weight . 6
6 Inspection rules . 6
6.1 Sampling . 6
6.1.1 Lot sample proportion and number . 6
6.1.2 Drawing of samples. 7
6.1.3 Test specimen preparation . 7
6.2 Inspection . 7
7 Packaging and labelling . 7
8 Test report . 8
Annex A (informative) Identification of skin cashmere . 9
Bibliography .13
iii
Foreword
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This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres
and yarns.
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iv
INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 5162:2023(E)
Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired
cashmere
1 Scope
This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection
rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere.
This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and
products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles,
etc.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 137, Wool — Determination of fibre diameter — Projection microscope method
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles — Quantitative chemical test
ISO 3071, Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract
ISO 3074, Wool — Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in combed sliver
ISO 17751-1, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 1: Light microscopy method
ISO 17751-2, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy method
ISO 18254-1, Textiles — Method for the detection and determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) —
Part 1: Method using HPLC-MS
ISO 18596, Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere — Hand-arranging method
ISO 20705, Textiles — Quantitative microscopical analysis — General principles of testing
IWTO-12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter Using the Sirolan-Laserscan Fibre
Diameter Analyser
IWTO 19 Determination of Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base of Core Samples of Raw Wool
IWTO-33 Method for the Determination of Oven-Dry Mass and Calculated Invoice Mass of Scoured or
Carbonised Wool
IWTO-47 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool using an Optical Fibre
Diameter Analyser (OFDA)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
raw cashmere
unprocessed down fibre from the fine, soft undercoat or underlayer of live cashmere goat producing
two layers of hair, predominated by fine undercoat down with minor amount of natural foreign matters
(3.8)
3.2
dehaired cashmere
processed cashmere after industrialized scouring and dehairing of raw cashmere (3.1)
3.3
pure virgin cashmere
100 % unused dehaired cashmere (3.2) without any other animal and non-animal fibre, which never
goes through process(es) of dyeing, spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing or chemically treated (such
as bleaching, decolouration, depigmentation etc.)
3.4
skin cashmere
cashmere recovered from the pelts of dead cashmere goat by chemical method or reagents
3.5
recycled cashmere
loose cashmere fibre recollected after going through processing stage(s), such as spinning, knitting,
weaving, finishing, felting or used by consumers
3.6
guard hair
coarser hair in cashmere fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm
3.7
guard hair content
percentage of mass of coarse fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm in the total fibre mass
3.8
foreign matter
non-fibrous matter such as soil, dandruff and burrs etc. included in cashmere
3.9
foreign matter content
number of pieces of foreign matters (3.8) in one gram of dehaired cashmere (3.2)
3.10
dark fibre
fibre longer than 5 mm with colour showing obvious difference from the original base colour of
cashmere, including dark fibre and non-white fibre
3.11
short fibre content
percentage of number of cashmere fibres ≤ 15 mm in the total number of a specific mass
3.12
damaged fibre content
percentage of number of fibres showing fibrillation, axial splitting, ruptures, split ends, scale lifting,
kinked bends or other damage in the total number of a specific number of fibres observed
3.13
non-animal matter
vegetable fibres, chemical fibres and/or other polymer matter (3.15) contained in dehaired cashmere
(3.2)
3.14
other animal fibre
animal fibres other than cashmere in dehaired cashmere (3.2)
3.15
polymer matter
synthetic matte
...